Catching up – Not running behind! And cup sizes..

by mariadenmark Posted on March 13, 2013

Wow. I made it to March 13 before I was able to do a new blog post. I hope you guys are still there?

{It's still winter-ish out. But we have started spring inside}
{It’s still winter-ish out. But we have started spring inside – that’s Chocolate Beauty Chili in the white pot.}

I have been sick. And that made me stress out – and that made me more sick. SO I am now doing my daily meditations, trying not to feel behind schedule and practising taking time of in week-ends and evenings (while still making money). I even took up my knitting again. And I started a lot of seeds inside (gardening always relaxes me). So I just want to tell you that I’m OK but I also want to remind everyone that it is very important to let your body slow down and relax!

Enough about my health!

Let’s talk about sizing:

When I did that survey in January, one of the things a lot of you (actually 56.7 %!)  told me that you are most frustrated with in regards to sewing, is the process of fitting a pattern. Since there are so many different body types and so many different curves, you will always have to fit any pattern – even if it’s just adjusting the side seams, but I can do something to help you: I have been considering drafting some of my patterns for several bust sizes, to eliminate the need for FBA‘s for a lot of people. I was taught to draft for a B-cup size – and this is what most pattern companies do (those in Europe, anyway, I don’t know much about the American pattern drafting systems). Since I use a C cup myself, I always alter (or redraft) for that cup size anyway, and it occurred to me that you guys might be interested in buying a C-cup (or D cup) pattern that already had taken care of the FBA? Would you?

I can’t promise you perfect fit right out of the package (still might be shoulder slopes to fix, and side seams might also need adjusting..), but you would have a better starting point if you wear a C or a D cup.

 

{Sneak Peak of my next pattern, coming next week. It's a simple knit dress with back darts and neckline and sleeve edges. Do you have any ideas for the name?}
{Sneak Peak of my next pattern, coming next week. It’s a simple knit dress with back darts and neckline and sleeve edges. Do you have any ideas for the name?}

At first I wondered if I should just design for a C-cup – and change the sizing of my patterns all together. A lot of other independent pattern designers design for C-cups (it’s apparently the most common cup size now, unlike 20 years ago, when the B-cup was the most common size, so it makes sense) so it wouldn’t be revolutionary or anything. But then I thought: What about those people who wear A or B cups? They would have to do Small Bust Adjustments, then…

So now I’m wondering. Would it be worth my while, do you think, to offer patterns drafted for different cup sizes ?? (I’m thinking B and C for now. Would also consider a D cup pattern, even though that will be more complicated – I just need a fitting model of that size:-))

Thoughts?

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You’d Almost Think I Worked In a Fabric Store…

by mariadenmark Posted on February 26, 2013

or: Some Sewing For Fun

A few weeks back Dennis (you, know, the husband/programmer/webmaster), who never seems to notice anything regarding home dec or fabric, commented on the ratty state of our old tea cozy.

He was right, you know. I made the old one 14 years ago. The filling was some sort of thin batting (and it didn’t really keep the tea warm for long) that lost it’s fluffy-ness 10 years ago. Also – the fabric screams 90′s (so I guess it will soon be retro-cool?) and reminds of the apartment I lived in with my son’s father, so you know. Looong overdue for change.

oldteacozy

Anyway. When he mentioned it, I could see that I had to do something about it. That same day I bought a meter of each of the two patchwork cottons I’d had used when I made a small box bag recently + some thermal interfacing. Washed them, hung them close to the furnace to dry, and the very next morning I got out the fabric, the old tea cozy and the tea pot and started to make a pattern by comparing tea pot measurements and old tea cozy.

And this is what came out of it. A lovely new tea cozy (that actually keeps the tea warm for a long time):

{New Lovely Tea Cozy - with cat hairs and tea stains and everything}
{New Lovely Tea Cozy – with cat hairs and tea stains and everything}

I used a double layer of the thermal interfacing (as recommended by the manufacturer – all though one wonders why they just don’t make it in a double layer then) and it’s a bit stiff to work with, but it went okay (all though a walking foot would have been nice). I can’t bother with bias tape, so I did a right-sides-togheter-turn-press-edgestitch thing instead. Worked fine.

That was quickly done, and then I had a lot of fabric left, so I decided to make matching pot holders. Still some left, so I made bread basket napkins thing-ies.

{Pot holders and bread basket napkins. Crumps and cat hairs included}
{Pot holders and bread basket napkins. Crumps and cat hairs included}

There is still a little fabric left. I think they’ll be small zipped pouches. I can’t do more for the table. It already looks like I’m a person who enjoys to sew and works in a fabric store with coordinating fabric. And we all know that’s not like me at all….

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Come Lounge with me..

by mariadenmark Posted on February 21, 2013

Here it is:

{Lounging with a book and a smile}
{Lounging with a book and a smile}

My newest pattern: MariaDenmark 302 – Laura Lounge Trousers

{New pattern Front Page. Had a little fun with modelling this time:-)}
{New pattern Front Page. Had a little fun with modelling this time:-)}

You might recall how these super cute and very comfortable lounge trousers started their life. It was when Gillian dared me on Twitter and I made my bright lounge wear set. I already had an idea for the trousers in my head on on the sketch pad and the dare made me draft the pattern properly.

Changes have been made since the original and I also added a jersey waistband option – because it can sometimes be hard to find ribbing in the right colours. You can even use a remnant from making your Birgitte Basic Tee to create a matching set!

{Smocked waistband. Really easy!}
{Smocked waistband. Really easy!}

The Laura Lounge Trousers are comfortable enough to do yoga or sleep in, but stylish enough that you won’t be ashamed to answer the door while wearing them.

These versions are made with cotton knit velour, but I would also recommend making a pair in sweatshirt fabric (with the soft side against the skin, it’ll be great for cold winter nights) or in a heavy jersey or double knit. Actually I have some fabric for making myself a grey sweatshirt fabric version. I’m thinking to add ribbed cuffs to make them more baggy and maybe some patch pockets… You know. For when I have a Sewing-For-Fun-Day.

Anyway. Pattern is available on MariaDenmark | ShopONION.com and on Craftsy.com (Europeans – check both links to find the best price – that’s all I’m ever going to say on that. For the rest of you the price ends up being the same w fees and stuff). It will also be on Patternreview.com shortly.

 

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Sneak Peaks and Thank Yous

by mariadenmark Posted on February 12, 2013

First of all – sorry for my absence. A mean bug decided to invade me and I have been sick (yes, really, not just ill) for over a week. It’s the kind of bug that’ll let you think you are okay then BAM drag you bag to bed. I think I’m better now, knock on wood. This post was partly written when the bug hit, and now I’m just going to post it..

Wow! You guys are amazing! Amazing!

Here I go and post two posts in a row asking to give me your opinions. And not only do I get a lot of answers. I get really well thought out answers that I can totally use when figuring out how to focus my energies and what to work towards.

Thank you!

 

{A new pattern on the way... Guesses?}
{A new pattern on the way… Guesses?}

I will post some results when I have them properly analysed and thought about them. But let me just tell you. I’m thinking I should continue to make fitting instructions with the patterns – because fitting must be the biggest frustration for sewers today – and there is really no need for that. It’s just techniques that can be learned.

So January has been for accounting, planning, translating, teaching and considering. February is still translating and teaching and planning and NEW PATTERNS!

{Smocking on a waistband... Could it be stylish lounge trousers?}
{Smocking on a waistband… Could these be stylish lounge trousers?}

I get a tiny bit distracted with new design ideas basicly all the time, but a meeting with my mentor made me realize that while inspiration is good, it will not let me finish products to sell if I get sidetracked. So I should sketch and describe any new idea, but really try to hold on to what I’m working on and my production plan.

Right now I’m finishing up two patterns – and making my first version of a third pattern I’m considering to release (one of those that just popped into my head).

{A toile}
{A toile}

I’ll be back soon with some FOs and a pattern release…

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To Print Or Not To Print

by mariadenmark Posted on February 1, 2013

When I started making plans for being an independent pattern designer, I didn’t consider printing my patterns and selling them in an envelope at all.

First of all, I thought it was impossible, financially. I would have to get a loan and not even being sure I could pay it back… well. I didn’t want to go there.

 

7his has absolutely nothing to do with the post, but it's a sample I did for a class. I started out w 2 pieces of fabric + a zipper}
{This has absolutely nothing to do with the post, but it’s a sample I did for a class. I started out w 2 pieces of fabric + a zipper}

Second, I’ve always felt that the one thing I wanted for my patterns to be unique or just special, would be the thorough instructions. Illustrated with clear photos, and even including fitting advise. With printed patterns, this can’t really be done, because it’s too expensive to print colour photos and to have many pages in the instructions, which is needed for them to truly show step-by-step sewing.

Third, I believe that it’s better (and a lot faster!) for the environment – and for the business to ship via the cheap and energy efficient internet shipping (hah!) than via a more unreliable postal service. And I do believe we will see more and more pdf patterns until they are the norm – and I do want to (and believe I am on the way) be among the first businesses to rely on pdf patterns as an stable income.

{.. I stitched a couple of seams..}
{.. I stitched a couple of seams..}

So. Why do I write that? Well.

A lot of people have written me asking me to print my patterns. And then there was a big talk on Twitter about it. And I got contacted by someone who will actually be able to print smaller amounts (usual minimum is 1000) at a fair price. And then I started thinking.

If people want printed patterns, maybe I can print some, with as detailed instructions as I have room for, and maybe B&W pics, and then give a link and a code to full colour (and fully detailed) instructions?!  What do you think?

{..and then I turned everything and did a few more seams..}
{..and then I turned everything and did a few more seams..}

I can’t do a Kickstarter funding since I’m not a US or UK resident. But I might be able to do a preorder thing that’s working the same way.. I’ll consider (and calculate) a bit more – but I’d love to know what you think!

And you know – I am already selling printed patterns. They are not my own design (but I have translated the instructions), and the instructions are not as thorough as the ones I do. But both the other brands (namely ONION and MiniKrea) are Danish designed patterns, in much the same design philosophy as I use.. And they come with instructions in English.

I send out newsletters with articles and offers for MariaDenmark patterns as well as Onion and MiniKrea (for instance – every month, a new ONION pattern is 25% off – this Month it’s an easy-to-sew jacket or coat.) You can sign up for my newsletter here (and in the sidebar):

 

Boxbag made by MariaDenmark
{..and it ended up being a super cute box bag, which I’m using in the fabric store to have my lotion and tissues etc. close by. Lousy Iphone pic – I apologize. But I do love the colour combination }
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I need to learn more..

by mariadenmark Posted on January 27, 2013

So. I’m slowly but surely (I hope) developing my business. I can’t quite make a living yet, but I think I might get there within a year or so.

One of the things my mentors keep asking me to do, is to get to know my customers or potential customers better, before I expand into new ventures (I have so many ideas, you guys, and I really need to know what to focus on if I’m to get anything done).

So, I need your help.Will you help me?

You can help me by taking your time to fill out this questionnaire. And please – only click on that link if you really want to reply. I have a limited replies account, so it will close when we hit the max.

{These two are helping me (or not..) every day. Mostly by sitting on stuff so I wont be sidetracked}
{These two are helping me (or not..) every day. Mostly by sitting on stuff so I wont be sidetracked}

 

Thank you so much for your help! Find the questionnaire H E R E!

 

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Rrrrrrrw (The Jungle January Skirt)

by mariadenmark Posted on January 22, 2013

I am such a lemming.

I really am.

For the last couple of weeks I’ve been (and continue to be for a few weeks to come) really really busy. Book keeping, translations of new season patterns for Onion and MiniKrea, the usual fabric store hours and teaching two new classes have left only very little time for sewing (and even less for drafting, photographing and writing, I’m afraid).

Yet I still found myself turning to my blog reader from time to time and I couldn’t help noticing the Jungle January (started by the Pretty Grievances blog) things that are going on.

So you know I had to do: In the fabric store, we sadly only had a very limited selection of animal print. Mostly chiffon and fake fur. And hidden away in the home dec section – this printed cotton/polyester blend.

Jungle January at mariadenmark.com

Nothing much to do with it (what was it intended for, I wonder.. It’s not quite heavy enough for upholstering. Pillows? Really non-drapey draperies? I don’t know.) but to make it into a skirt. I got myself 75 cm – threw it in the washer and dryer (gasp! I never put my clothes in the dryer) and quickly cut the pieces for a pencil skirt using my own skirt draft. For I was planning to wear that skirt for the baptism of my niece – and I was to be the GodMother!

{Here I am. Godmother'ing Sofie. I loved it!She behaved nicely - and so did I (I think)}
{Here I am. Godmother’ing Sofie. I loved it!She behaved nicely – and so did I (I think)}

It was a quick and dirty make – no facings, no waistband, just the skirt front and back and the lining front and back, invisible zipper, pin fitting, sewing the lining to the waist and zipper, turning, hemming – and that was it. Phew.

After working long days in the fabric store (=no sewing) Wednesday and Thursday, I finished it Friday, and then only had to make the top before leaving for the baptism on Saturday. I decided to wear a drape top with my new skirt, but the blue one was too dark and the brownish one too light, so I made one in a teal green.

I didn’t get around to take any pictures myself, these were taken by my sister, and they don’t really show the outfit. In the one below I had the sun directly in my face and couldn’t see a thing. Also it was freezing minus 8 degrees – so I just wanted to get my coat back on..

 

{Blinded by the light (and the snow didn't help either:-))}
{Blinded by the light (and the snow didn’t help either:-))}

Anyway. I really like my skirt. In the Iphone-pic on top I wore it with a grey t-shirt – and I think it toned the skirt down enough to be able to wear it to work. Actually – I thought it looked pretty good with the plain t-shirt.

Well. I’m off to do some more translations.. Talk to you on the other side..

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Dare!

by mariadenmark Posted on January 12, 2013

Gillian started daring everyone on Twitter last week-end. And soon I was accepting a dare to use a colourfull (I do believe the work BRIGTH was used) piece of knit fabric from my stash to make underwear and/or lounge wear.

I remembered being inspired by  Scruffy Badger Winnie’s  Underwear post, and quickly downloaded the free vest pattern from the So, Zo…blog.

{Bright fabric and elastic!}
{Bright fabric and elastic!}

I had already drafted a pattern for lounge trousers (still pondering whether I should make it into a pattern. Do you think anyone else would want to sew lounge trousers?.) and during the stash-handling I came upon this bright turquoise stretch velour and this pink (it doesn’t really show up pink in the photo… but believe me – it is bright pink!) dotted cotton-lycra blend.. And then I found this amazingly coordinating Fold Over Elastic. So a lounge set it was!

This was so much fun! Getting a dare like that really started some creative juices in me. This was truly a Sewing-For-Fun project!

Unfortunately the pictures aren’t the best. I should have shown you the entire outfit, but I was having a case of the VPLs, that I didn’t catch when I got the pics, and I haven’t had the opportunity to retake them, so here you go..

{My #Sewingdares results!}
{My #Sewingdares results!}

I had so much fun! And also – be sure to check out all the other #Sewingdares results!

 

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I have no pictures

by mariadenmark Posted on January 5, 2013

I really don’t. Every day this week (not true, because I was away for two of them, but anyway..) I have been trying to get some good pictures of something sewing related.

But no luck.. It’s so dark all the time. Even today, when I spend all day at the computer, I checked from time to time to see how the lighting was. No luck.

tekst

So I have no new pictures. I can’t show you how to pin fit your trousers properly. I can’t make my new header (need some artistic needle and thread works – and am not  prepared to pay for it from a photo bank, yet…) and I can’t show you the piles of fleece in lovely spring colours (because I live in a place where summer and fleece fabric actually goes together, you know) I’m using for samples for my classes that are starting next week.

I’m also working on some new designs – both for the pattern line and for other uses (so here it would be nice with pictures of my pencils, my lousy sketches and maybe a blurry pic of the design wall with spring coloured fabric) – and then there is all the end-of-year tax work. Balancing the books, labelling all the little pieces of paper, printing whatever has been kept online (so stupid that I have to print it) and placing of everything in binders.

And that’s pretty much what I did this week…. How was your week?

P.S. I just realized – I need to blog about how my taking the Seamless Pledge is working out.
I have now been banned (by myself) from buying RTW clothes, bags and shoes for two months. It’s still going great. I have been tempted by shoes, but have not bought them. I made my Christmas Dress and wore my drape tops for any other holiday parties and didn’t need anything else.
I have a bit of a challenge for January though, as I am going to be Sofie’s godmother and carry her at the baptism, and I need to work out an outfit for that. Am thinking about making the “leather” pencil skirt I’ve been talking about and pairing it with a light coloured drape top (maybe w sleeves) and heeled boots… Opinions?

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I’m back – and Happy New Year!

by mariadenmark Posted on December 31, 2012

Hey everybody!

I’ll just do one of those catching up posts again. I’ve missed you, but also kind of enjoyed being off line. It’s good with a break from time to time…

So here we go:

1. Oh, wow! I’m so thrilled by the welcome the day-to-night-top got! Amazing! (BTW – it’s still introductory priced until January 1st!) Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
I’m also delighted to read the reviews – and the first four reviewers (who will receive a free MariaDenmark pattern + a surprise sewing package) are:
Scruffy Badger
Sew Busy Lizzy
Suzy Bee Sews
Darry Do!

I’ll send your packages in mid January and we’ll talk via e-mail about the MariaDenmark pattern (if you haven’t already, please e-mail me at maria (at) mariadenmark (dot) com!)

2. Christmas! Did you have a great time? Did you give any handmade stuff? Did you recieve any, or any sewing/knitting pressies?
I made some cotton voilé scarfs that were well recieved (I talked about them in the Christmas Special of the Podcast), as well as two pairs of handwarmers.

I also got great presents: Including a knitting pattern I’ve had on my wish list for some time and yarn and also a gliding foot for my Husquarna machine. The male members of my household (i.e. the husband and the 15 yo son) gave me wonderful presents to spoil me – including luxury underwear and jewellery (from the husband, of course ;-) ) and the son had gotten me a gift certificate for a facial. We always put little rhymes or poems (with clues) on our packages and his said “you are already pretty and this will relax you and make you even prettier” (I can’t really bother to make that rhyme in English right now.. )

{Thank you for a great year! Happy New Year!!}
{Thank you for a great year! Happy New Year!!}

3. The obligatory end-of-year review: What a year 2012 has been! A year ago I was unhappy with my workplace and grumpy and not seeing where I would be going with my career. Then during the spring I realised that I needed to do something about it all and one of the things I realized was, that I might be able to make a living from making sewing patterns and teaching on the side – making use of the drafting classes I had taken. In June I was considering and in July I knew I had to do something. I was able to quit my elementary school job in October and have worked for my self and the fabric store for 3 months now. And I’m pretty happy. And not feeling stressed out, which I love.

4. The obligatory looking forward into next year: Well I have big plans. Not only for my patterns and my designs, but also for doing something for the Danish Sewing Market. One of my “compe-leagues” (see what I did there? :-) ) asked me why I wasn’t interested in selling to the Scandinavian market. My reply was that I don’t really have a platform to do it from. We are working on changing that…
So my goals for 2013? To make enough from my patterns etc to support myself fully, to develop my pattern designs and venture into the Danish market – and to have fun, keep running and gardening and find strength to overcome any obstacles that’ll be on the way. Well. Anything can happen – and it usually does.

5. Happy 2013 to all my readers and customers! Be save on New Years Eve (I’ll be wearing a Drape Top, of course!)  and I’ll see you next year – May you all have a year filled with lovely fabric and fun!

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